My mom’s mother was the “model” grandmother; she sewed doll clothes, made homemade Play-Doh, and baked for every family gathering. My dad’s mom—Grandma Slonecker— was quite the opposite; an avid traveler and socialite, she was not necessarily known for her domestic prowess. However, there are exactly two “recipes” I remember Grandma Slonecker making when we’d visit: One was 7UP floats; the other were these quirky holiday hors d’oeuvres that appeared at every Christmas gathering. Her “pizza toasts,” as she called them, is the one hand-me-down recipe my family still makes every December. In researching the origin of her recipe, I discovered that little cocktail rye toasts topped with ground sausage and melted Velveeta cheese were a popular mid-century party snack in the Midwest. And they were the reason that I was full every year before the roast came out of the oven, even before the presents were unwrapped and the Tom and Jerry cocktails were poured. They were salty and cheesy, gooey and crunchy—basically, my ideal. For food-minded people like me, holiday cooking is one part revisiting nostalgic flavors and one part taking those family favorites to a more sophisticated place. Though I grew up on Velveeta casseroles, and still enjoy it in Tex-Mex queso dip on occasion, I tend to prefer the flavor of more artisanal cheeses in my own cooking. That velvety texture isn’t easily replicated, but I found that melting a combination of mascarpone (or cream cheese) with robust Taleggio brings a similar gooey, saucy consistency and an elevated taste. But not too elevated—this is still retro pre-holiday-feast fodder. The topping for these toasts can be made a few days ahead, and it’s as straightforward as browning some Italian sausage and melting in the cheeses. I throw in some chopped parsley for freshness and color, but otherwise, this recipe is nearly identical in taste to my grandma’s. Which is exactly what I was going for. Passing recipes from one generation to the next, to modernize or simplify, making adjustments to meet current tastes, is part of our ongoing evolution in cooking. What’s old is new again. What better time than the holidays to revive a family favorite of your own?
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Ingredients
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1 pound mild Italian sausage, casings removed
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4 ounces mascarpone cheese or cream cheese
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1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
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1 teaspoon dried oregano
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8 ounces Taleggio cheese, rind removed and cut into small pieces
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1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, divided
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1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
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24 cocktail rye bread slices
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4 ounces fontina cheese, shredded (about 1 cup)
Directions
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Cook sausage in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high, breaking it up into small pieces with a wooden spoon, until browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer sausage to a cutting board using a slotted spoon; discard fat. Let cool slightly, about 5 minutes, or until cool enough to handle. Chop sausage into small pieces.
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Return sausage to skillet over medium-low; stir in mascarpone, Worcestershire, and oregano until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add Taleggio; gently cook, stirring often, until cheese is just melted and gooey, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat; stir in 2 tablespoons parsley and salt. Let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes. (The topping can be transferred to an airtight container and stored in refrigerator up to 3 days.)
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Preheat oven to 350°F. Arrange bread slices on a large rimmed baking sheet with some space between them. Top each slice with about 1 1/2 teaspoons cheesy sausage mixture and 1 teaspoon fontina.
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Bake in preheated oven until bread is toasted and topping is lightly browned, 18 to 20 minutes. Cut toasts in half; sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons parsley. Serve hot.
My mom’s mother was the “model” grandmother; she sewed doll clothes, made homemade Play-Doh, and baked for every family gathering. My dad’s mom—Grandma Slonecker— was quite the opposite; an avid traveler and socialite, she was not necessarily known for her domestic prowess. However, there are exactly two “recipes” I remember Grandma Slonecker making when we’d visit: One was 7UP floats; the other were these quirky holiday hors d’oeuvres that appeared at every Christmas gathering. Her “pizza toasts,” as she called them, is the one hand-me-down recipe my family still makes every December. In researching the origin of her recipe, I discovered that little cocktail rye toasts topped with ground sausage and melted Velveeta cheese were a popular mid-century party snack in the Midwest. And they were the reason that I was full every year before the roast came out of the oven, even before the presents were unwrapped and the Tom and Jerry cocktails were poured. They were salty and cheesy, gooey and crunchy—basically, my ideal. For food-minded people like me, holiday cooking is one part revisiting nostalgic flavors and one part taking those family favorites to a more sophisticated place. Though I grew up on Velveeta casseroles, and still enjoy it in Tex-Mex queso dip on occasion, I tend to prefer the flavor of more artisanal cheeses in my own cooking. That velvety texture isn’t easily replicated, but I found that melting a combination of mascarpone (or cream cheese) with robust Taleggio brings a similar gooey, saucy consistency and an elevated taste. But not too elevated—this is still retro pre-holiday-feast fodder. The topping for these toasts can be made a few days ahead, and it’s as straightforward as browning some Italian sausage and melting in the cheeses. I throw in some chopped parsley for freshness and color, but otherwise, this recipe is nearly identical in taste to my grandma’s. Which is exactly what I was going for. Passing recipes from one generation to the next, to modernize or simplify, making adjustments to meet current tastes, is part of our ongoing evolution in cooking. What’s old is new again. What better time than the holidays to revive a family favorite of your own? Photo: Jennifer Causey Cook Mode (Keep screen awake) Ingredients 1 pound mild Italian sausage, casings removed 4 ounces mascarpone cheese or cream cheese 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon dried oregano 8 ounces Taleggio cheese, rind removed and cut into small pieces 1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, divided 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 24 cocktail rye bread slices 4 ounces fontina cheese, shredded (about 1 cup) Directions Cook sausage in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high, breaking it up into small pieces with a wooden spoon, until browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer sausage to a cutting board using a slotted spoon; discard fat. Let cool slightly, about 5 minutes, or until cool enough to handle. Chop sausage into small pieces. Return sausage to skillet over medium-low; stir in mascarpone, Worcestershire, and oregano until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add Taleggio; gently cook, stirring often, until cheese is just melted and gooey, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat; stir in 2 tablespoons parsley and salt. Let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes. (The topping can be transferred to an airtight container and stored in refrigerator up to 3 days.) Preheat oven to 350°F. Arrange bread slices on a large rimmed baking sheet with some space between them. Top each slice with about 1 1/2 teaspoons cheesy sausage mixture and 1 teaspoon fontina. Bake in preheated oven until bread is toasted and topping is lightly browned, 18 to 20 minutes. Cut toasts in half; sprinkle with remaining 2 tablespoons parsley. Serve hot.
Cheesy Sausage Cocktail Toasts
